Category: Revs go up when i press clutch motorcycle

Revs go up when i press clutch motorcycle

Why don't you go back to the ws and ask them what's wrong? They should have diagnosed and fix the problem even before releasing the car to you. While repairs may not bring the overall car condition to pre-accident condition level, such engine condition should have been fixed especially since the car has been with the ws for 10 days!!.

revs go up when i press clutch motorcycle

If so, it can only mean that the clutch is in contact with the flywheel. Just slight contact, not enough to make the car move but enough to cause the RPM to drop a little.

So when you step on the clutch, it removes the load on the engine and RPM goes up immediately. Suggest you get to the WS to get it fixed. During the accident, depending on how bad, the engine oil could have choked up your tb. What are u smoking?? The clutch plate is always connected to your flywheel when u are driving and in gear.

There was a procedure available in mycarforum previously for ECU learning sequence but may differ between different makes. I do the following at times not sure of step 2 but i still do it just to check all is working.

Why does the rpms get high when changing gears?

My car manual says to depress the cluth when starting. I think it appplies to all manual trans cars. It seems to be the throttle body problem, to pin point it, might be the throttle servo which is a solenoid that opens and closes, to adjust the amount of air entering the intake whilst idling, air-conditioning kicks in or out.

Your encounter sounds like one to me. Since you also mention about cleaning throttle body, it might be the cleaning solution gotten into the servo unit itself and dried out the grease within, hence affecting the solenoid movement and therefore response. It is only when the solution evaporated, the remaining grease can resume lubrication. Encounter 1 - During good condition, every first start up in cold morning, the rpm would hit 1.

Whenever, the air-con is on, the rpm would be slightly lower, when the compressor kicks in or out, the rpm would jump and rest at around 1k rpm. But when this throttle servo gone haywire, the engine will remain at 1k rpm after first start up in morning. After warm up, the rpm would hit 1. At times it would feel like choking and dies off, have to apply rev to keep the engine alive. Encounter 2 - ECU got reset. The engine dies off whenever I brake and slow down rpm reaches normal idling speed and got lower, engine vibrates and dies off for a traffic light.

That happens for a day. After that, the ECU relearns itself again and the car was back to normal. For me, I went into Malaysia to do the cleaning, because it was a proton. They used Diesel for the cleaning. Subsequently every half a year, the problem came back. From there on, I got the cleaning solution, remove the throttle body and did the cleaning myself.

The servo has to be greased after the cleaning, because it is a constant moving part. Since your ride has been disconnected from the battery for 10 days, it would be good to bring it for a tuning to set things right.

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Forums Blogs Marketplace. Why my RPM goes up when i clutch in????The Oct. Why is my motorcycle engine RPM rising when I apply the clutch? For about the last three months, the engine RPM has increased k when i apply the clutch.

Additionally, over the course of about an hour, the idle RPM will increase to around 3. I have the idea that this is either a valve problem or a vacuum leak, but google hasn't been much assistance. If it were my Karmann Ghia an air cooled flat-4I'd change all the gaskets, seals, and maybe the hose clamps on my carburetor and then see if I could get a tune up to take.

My first guess for the change over time would be temperature-related. At any rate, I'd start by looking at hoses, carb boots and so on, trying to find something that's cracked and admitting too much air.

Maybe the choke system? No change to idle RPM with the engine in neutral - only when in gear and rolling. Running for an hour, shutting down, and starting it up a few minutes later results in the RPM going back to the point it was at shutdown. Weird idle problems often are related to vacuum leaks. My first thought is there's a small split on one of the rubber boots that mounts your carb to the cylinder head. One way to check is to see if the idle changes when you spray WD40 onto each boot if there's a leak, the engine will suck in WD40 rather than air posted by zombiedance at PM on January 13, [ 1 favorite ].

Isn't this just a case of the clutch slipping? I had that exact same bike with a very, very similar problem. Those carbs suck a LOT of air, but they're very finicky about just exactly what they're getting. I think it's one of the following: -heat related vacuum leak, either in a carb boot, vacuum line, or carb-to-engine-gasket.

I don't think this is your problem though -A sticky carb needle that's not springing back closed -Those bikes also have very sensitive electrical systems.

6 Reasons Your Motorcycle Is Losing Power When Accelerating

It's entirely likely you've got something messing with your spark, although I don't think this is it either.

That makes a lot of sense really with it only happening in gear Clutches on that bike are easy-peasy, worth a look. If your revs go up as the bike gets warm, if sounds to me like the clutch pushrod is out of adjustment. As the engine heats up, the case will expand and the rod will go further out of adjustment, and the clutch will slip as if you were pulling on it part way and the revs will go up. The fact the revs go up when you pull in the clutch indicates further that your adjustment rod or cable is not in and you've raised the idle to compensate.

In other words, you're clutch is always in part way and you've raised the idle to compensate. So do this: First, back the adjustment off at the lever so you have slack on the cable. Next, find the adjustment where the cable connects to the rod. Back it out until you're sure the connection is broken then slowly push it back until it just contacts the rod.

Now set the idle on the carbs it should be high. Now set the adjustment at the lever to what you are comfortable with in terms of pull to the friction point. It's possible your plates are worn down because of this, and replacement is a bit more of a job, put you'll notice a swampy smell if they're worn down. If it's a vacuum leak, you can test by spraying wd or carb cleaner around the carb and listening of a change of RPM when you spray close to the leak.

Also check your timing, and make sure it's not going into "advanced" timing the timing for full chat as opposed to idle too soon. You should add "kawasaki" as a keyword here.Our Address. Kings Mills, OH Your website and tutorials are so great — it looks like, as I get into auto mechanics over the next few years, yours will be the first and primary resource for instruction and information.

This stuff looks amazing! The revving would go back to normal as I let my foot off the clutch and hit the gas to accelerate again. The problem lasted the short 2 minutes before I got home and parked the car. Any comments or suggestions are very welcome! No, no engine light — which makes me assume that there is less likelihood that it is either the IAC or any other sensor or computer problem. Though I may be wrong. Yes, it is a hydraulic clutch.

When I go out there, I will have to give that diagnosis a closer investigation. I pressed the clutch in and out several times, and there was no change. It sounds perfect. So now I am assuming that AIC valve is starting to go, and will buy a new one and hopefully replace it myself!

I would be looking for more evidence before spending money to replace a possibly normal part.

revs go up when i press clutch motorcycle

I do understand the bind people are in, not having equipment or training to fix something and hoping to get by without professional help. But the pathway of replacing likely parts without investigation can be expensive and fruitless. The first thing I would do is put it on a code scanner and look at live data, including IAC counts, fuel trim, rpm, etc. An autoparts store may offer a discount version of that for free. He had an occult coolant leak, which caused coolant to incompletely bathe the coolant sensor, which gave spurious data, which caused the engine to ask for more fuel.

When you find the root cause, all the secondary problems disappear. Does the engine rev up? Dang computers making things difficult. Thanks for reinforcing the idea that auto mechanics are not a simple task. Maybe a good question would be: how do you know if the AIC valve is dirty or needs replacement, just by looking at the part itself? Would a caked grime make itself apparent enough? I realized that, for the same reason a vacuum leak could cause the engine to rev, dirty fuel injectors might be the problem.

Home Topic Engine revs when I press the clutch. Engine revs when I press the clutch.

RPM's Increase When Clutch is Pushed in?

May 29, at pm David Findley Participant. Viewing 10 replies - 1 through 10 of 10 total.When I am at a standstill, it idles normally.

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It could be a sticky throttle cable holding the throttle open momentarily when you take your foot off the gas. Thank you for the reply. It revs around 20k with the clutch disengaged. Once warmed up, it will idle normally around 8k, but revs 20k or higher when shifting. Is this part on the Saturn SL1? And if I clean it, should I used carburator cleaner or something else?

Any merit to disconnecting the battery fora short period? And the opinions are of speculation. Please check your tachometer again. As mcparadise suggested, the problem could be as simple as a throttle cable that needs to be lubed.

Or, it could be a vacuum leak. However, the clutch is not the problem. With the car stopped and engine idling in neutral, give the throttle a short tap.

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Get a helper to tap the pedal while you look at the linkage under the hood. Does it snap back in place when the pedal is released? OK, hanging my head in shame about the rpm thing. But back to my other questions. You may be able to clean the throttle body well without removing it.

Get some sensor-safe throttle body cleaner and clean the throttle body with the throttle flap open. Then, spray down the linkage and work the solvent in by opening and closing the throttle until smooth. You will need to remove the IAC to clean it out. Disconnecting the battery is OK, but not really necessary. Resetting the ECM probably will not help much. Is the flairing RPM a sudden, new issue, or one that has crept up from just noticeable to alarming? Many manual shifts incorporate a throttle control to keep RPMs up on shifts to facilitate a softer re-engagement of the clutch.

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When shifted quickly the slight elevation is RPMs is not noticed. Without the increased RPMs releasing the clutch actually slows the car monentarily.

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Dash pots were common on carburetors for years. Now, the computer uses the idle air control. As BK said you can likely clean without removal. But if you do want to remove it, these kinds of gaskets do seem to be less than common parts. This is actually normal for a Saturn. A lot of other cars do this as well.Acceleration on a motorcycle is one of the exhilarating parts of the riding experience.

So it can be incredibly frustrating when there are accelerating problems with a motorcycle. You give it some gas and sometimes it does the opposite of what you want: loses power and actually slows down or maybe even stalls. Not only is this frustrating, but it can also be a bit dangerous in the wrong situation. So, why is your motorcycle losing power when accelerating? There are six main reasons why a motorcycle loses power when accelerating which are:. I have experienced this very thing on a lot of the motorcycles I have owned.

Through trial and error, I have been able to figure out the reasons why a motorcycle loses power when accelerating and how to fix it which will be explained.

A usual culprit to running problems on a motorcycle is the carburetor. The jets are tiny passageways that the fuel flows through to combine with air so the engine gets the proper air-fuel mixture. These include both the main jets and the pilot jets. These jets often get clogged with either debris or components in gas, such as ethanol. When these get clogged, fuel cannot be delivered so your engine will be getting too much air and not enough fuel, thus causing loss of power when accelerating.

Next, take the jet and spray some cleaner through it. Make sure you can see it coming out the other end. You can also blow some compressed air through it to make sure you got any debris out. Do this for all jets on the carburetor to make sure all of them are clean.

Having the right tools makes a job like this a lot easier.

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Click here to see my list of recommended tools to use on your motorcycle. As small of a part as it is, the carburetor spring is a vital part to the function of the carburetor as well as the rest of your motorcycle.

Revs Go Up When Clutch Pedal Pressed When Changing Gear

A broken carburetor spring is often a culprit to poor acceleration on a motorcycle. These springs are located where the throttle cable comes down and connects to the carburetor. If this spring is broken, it will not be able to open the butterfly valve and let any air in.

This causes your motorcycle to run rich on fuel. The improper air-fuel mixture will cause your motorcycle to lose power. How to fix it: If you suspect that you have a broken carburetor spring, you can easily diagnose it by turning your motorcycle off, remove the pod filters or airbox, and peer inside the carburetor and see the butterfly valve reaction when you twist the throttle. It will be easiest to completely take off your carburetor to replace the spring. This can be caused by either faulty gaskets on the carburetor or cracked or loose intake boots.

While a carburetor is trying to make the right air and fuel mixture to deliver to the engine, it happens inside the carburetor which should be sealed without disturbance for it to work right.

This is referred to as a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak leads to too much air being added to the air-fuel mixture the carburetor makes. In fact, the more gas you try to give the motorcycle, the more air will be sucked into the unwanted holes which will ultimately make you lose power.

How to fix it: Examine the intake boots on your carburetor. Ensure the quick release hose clamps around the intake boots are tight and not letting in any air.By MobergDecember 12, in Auris Club. Hello, I'm new to this forum, so my apologies if this issue has been discussed.

I bought my used Auris 1. It has a milage of approx miles. Manual gear. The problem is that the revs seem to rise for about rpm, if I press the clutch or change to neutral. Take for example in the morning - The engine is cold and the normal idle is rpm.

revs go up when i press clutch motorcycle

When I am in normal drive at approx rpm and approach a red light, I depress the clutch in intention to just cruise to the light before stopping and my revs drop to normal idle and immediately climbs to rpm.

As soon as the car is completely stopped, the revs drop back to normal idle. The same happens with a hot engine. Normal idle is approxi drive at normal speed at rpm, depress the clutch and the revs drop first to rpm and climb immediately up to rpm, where the revs hang until the car is stopped.

It feels as like the ECU is forcing the engine to rev an additional rpm. I took it to my local Toyota dealer, who told me that it just might be normal behavior to an Auris, which seemed quite stange to me. They agreed to change the air intake gasket and to clean my throttle body as warranty work, as I suspected an air leak or a dirty TB.

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I also did a ECU reset, but none of these had any effect. Could my fellow Aurinist's tell me if this is normal behavior or not. If it is normal, is it due to emission control or to burn out any excess fuel? The Auris in my experience does increase the revs to enable smooth gear changes if you forget to blip the throttle.

I also find if you have the heater on full whilst the engine is cold the engine will drop to idle revs when you stop, and then increase, until the engine is warm. Agree with Crasstoe. I have had three Petrol versions of the Auris and have found the rev fluctuations to be normal behavior. Try sitting there and turn things on and off one at a time to see what I mean.

The vehicle is also fitted with emission controls which raises the revs when changing gear, some people think it is the throttle sticking but it is quite natural as well. As you probably already figured out from my grammar, I am not from the UK or Ireland region, but I decided to join as you guys seem to be very active on this forum and above all, seem to know the solution to every problem.

I tried to turn the heater off and it had quite a positive effect on the fluctuation, just as Crasstoe mentioned. All in all I have really grown to like my "new" Auris and I am quite certain that this will not be my last toyota. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

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Recommended Posts. Posted December 12, I have checked carbs, cable, timing and fuel and still have the problem of increased revs even though I am closing the throttle each time.

Why are my revs increasing when I change gear? I had the same problem with my Gsxr last month when i was on the track, every time i pulled in the clutch lever the engine rpm would rise, it proved pretty difficult for smooth cornering. I found my problem was the secondary throttle position sensor STPS. I would prob say it could be down to 1 of 3 things. The first thing to check is the butterflys to make sure they are moving smoothly with no sticky points, if they are sticky just lube them up use a lube on the end of a cotton bud, DO NOT DROP THE BUD into the engine a little until they return smoothly to the throttle closed position the butterfly will sit slightly open when the throttle is fully closed otherwise the bike would stall.

The second item to check is the throttle position sensor TPSthis is normally mounted to the end of the butterflys, most modern bikes will allow you to enter a dealers mode which will show any fuels with the sensor on the dash.

If you cannot access dealer mode then you can slacken the mounting screw slightly and rotate the sensor about the screw very slightly and you will notice a difference in the engine note, this is just a try and see fix. When you get these sensors set up correctly the bike shall feel far better to ride than it ever did as the throttle shall be so much better at pick up.

The opposite applies when the sensor is moved in the wrong position ie. The engine shall bog down a little more then normal. Some people use these sensors for fine tuning. If you're changing to a higher gear, close the throttle as you disengage the clutch then as you engage the clutch again gently open the throttle so engine speed matches road speed. When changing down reverse this process i.

If you don't get the revs balanced to match speed the bike will lurch as you engage the clutch when you change up or down.

I know when the engine is cold my bike will do the same thing where no matter how synchronized my clutch-work is with my throttle inputs it will surge a bit. I don't think it's a problem beyond aesthetics, but the answer is clutchless upshifts if it bothers you that much.

Dipping the throttle and shifting without disengaging the clutch provides very little opportunity for the engine to spool up without a load. That IS the main reason for the surge: a loaded versus unloaded engine. Because as you use the clutch the engine is set free of the load of the bike and requires less power at that moment. So the revs increase until you re-engage the engine to propel the bike. Changing up you should close the throttle and changing down leave the throttle setting as it is.

This equalises the revs to the load. I don't know what bike you have, but these guys can help with just about anything. With out knowing what kind of bike it is, It sounds like a problem i had.

It was my choke sticking open and when i pulld the clutch in it would rev up.


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